The best way to describe the main benefit of a peel is, STIMULATE.
Peels stimulate a number of reactions by exfoliating the superficial layers of the epidermis. This in turn has consequences on fibroblastic synthesis and angiogenesis, which take place in the papillary dermis and renew and revive the skin. A peel can also directly penetrate and act on the dermis which is a unique property of peels.
The benefits of peels were first noticed years ago by Egyptian women who noticed that the byproducts of grapes improved their skin, due to their tartric acid. They also noticed that milk baths made their skin softer, because of its lactic acid. In the Antilles Islands, women noticed that the use of products obtained from sugar cane made their skin softer, which was a result of the glycolic acid found in the sugar.
Today, years of research have created an arsenal of peels, from those which act superficially to those which are deeply penetrating, which treat a number of conditions, with little to no downtime.
The superficial peels are: glycolic acid peels, lactic acid peels, salicylic acid peels, kojic acid and TCA of low concentration. These peels will cause no or minimal exfoliation and will improve the texture, brighten the complexion, hydrate, and decrease fine lines in the skin. These treatments will restore the equilibrium between different cell types.
The INTERMIDIATE peels are primarily the TCA peels. These peels will improve deeper wrinkles, eliminate actinc keratotic lesions which are precancerous lesions, and improve the skin’s overall tone. These peels will repair the skin and revive all of the skin’s functions.
The DEEP peels like TCA 40% and phenol peels cause a dramatic result by practically liquefying the epidermis and strongly stimulating the dermis. The skin becomes very smooth, and lines are completely eliminated.
These treatments are extremely rewarding, but not without potentially severe side effects and if practiced should only be done by very experienced physicians. The most common indication is very wrinkled, thin skin which can lose about 10 to 15 following the peel.
As many of you know, I attended several Aesthetic Conferences in the past few months and I would like to share with you the latest news in the world of injectables.
NO BRUISE FILLERS. The most valuable advancement I encountered is the blunt cannula, which allows one to inject filler without causing bruising. It is available in a variety of widths and lengths, which gives me tremendous versatility. I am now using them with all the HA fillers, such as Restylane, Perlane, Juvederm, Radiesse or Sculptra. This technique requires fewer punctures into the skin, making it less traumatic. Only 2-4 entry points are usually necessary to treat a whole face. The procedure is painless and permits injections not only in the face but also the décolletage, and hands.
NEW NEUROMODULATORS
Adding to the armamentarium of botulin toxins is Xeomin, recently approved by the FDA for use in the glabellar area. The new product contains the same chains of amino acids but without the complex proteins. Its purity makes it easier to conserve, while having the same therapeutic effects as Botox. Like Botox, it requires the same doses to achieve optimal results.
NEW TOPICAL TOXIN TYPE A
For those who shy away from needles, there will be a topical botulin toxin on the horizon. This product, Revance, is now in the latest stages of Phase 2 Trials. 11 studies involving over 500 patients, showed excellent efficacy in the crow’s feet area with no undesirable effects.
I would like to take the opportunity to once again remind everybody who is undergoing Botox to this particular area that studies show disappearance of lines at rest with this treatment. Even at the age of 20, when you smile, there will be wrinkling of the skin around your eyes, but, they will disappear at rest which is what we are hoping to achieve
with Botox to this area. The end goal of all our treatments is to allow our clients to continue to have a natural appearance and not to look like they’ve had “something done.”
As many have said before, the technique of injection is not particularly difficult to learn, what is challenging is knowing where and how to utilize the technique to create a natural, aesthetically pleasing outcome.
In choosing a cosmetic doctor, I have learned, it is crucial to look for someone who is not only knowledgeable, but who truly understands aesthetics and facial anatomy. It is also extremely important to seek out someone who devotes his or her time exclusively to cosmetic medicine, whether surgical or nonsurgical. It is rare to find a first class injector who also devotes time to other specialties like gynecology, dentistry or even general dermatology.
Lastly, Revance shows promising results for those suffering from hyperhydrosis or extreme axillary sweating, simply by applying a gel.
NEW USE FOR BOTOX
Botox used in a technique called MesoBotox shows promising results in conditions like Rosacea, Acne, fine lines or crappie skin.
It is has added benefit to the mesolift and can be used together with the injections of hyaluronic acid or by itself to improve texture and tone.
In case you are all wondering why we so strongly advise getting facials on a regular basis, we thought we would explain some of the many benefits.
Facials are, as the name implies, skin treatments of the face, given by licensed aestheticians. The treatment starts with a detailed skin analysis, followed by cleaning, exfoliation, extractions, massage and, finally, a calming mask.
Facials benefit your skin in many ways. The deep cleansing removes build up and excessive sebum, preventing the clogging of pores and formation of comedones. This treatment is especially effective for acne-prone skin. Exfoliation, the removal of dead skin, will speed up the cell cycle and enhance collagen deposition. Black heads and white heads are removed during your treatment. Your skin will become more radiant and supple.
The massage stimulates blood circulation, brings more oxygen to the cell, and provides lymphatic drainage, reducing congestion and puffiness.
Our specialized facials have additional health benefits. Antioxidant facials contain free radical fighting products, which prevent free radical damage caused by daily polluants. Hydrating facials use products which penetrate deep into the skin providing moisture, while correcting the skin’s natural pH.
Facials can be combined with microdermabrasion, either ultrasonic or crystal, which will further add rejuvenating benefits to your treatment through exfoliation and mechanical stimulation. Alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids have additional benefits and can be incorporated into any facial you may choose. These products can benefit acne- or rosacea-prone skin, in addition to aging skin.
Facials can regulate the immune system and aid in stress relief.
Our aestheticians can guide you in selecting the type of facial that will benefit your skin the most. They can also introduce you to more advanced treatments that our medical spa has to offer.
You may develop some redness, flakiness or even breakouts after a facial. This is a normal reaction and will resolve within a few days, leaving behind radiant, glowing skin. However, it is advisable not to schedule a facial close to a special event, particularly if you have clogged pores. Please call us with any questions you may have.
Your home skin care regimen is extremely important, it will compliment any in-office treatment you chose to have, so do not hesitate to discuss your regimen with your aesthetician. These treatments can be performed on your neck, décolleté or back. Please do not forget these areas as they can be prone to the same problems as the skin on your face!
Acne is a chronic, inflammatory condition of the hair follicle. It is characterized by comedones (white and black heads), papules, pustules, nodules and cysts.
This is a common skin problem in adolescents as well as in adults. It affects 40-50 million people in the United States.
There are four major factors associated with the pathogens behind acne. These are, increased sebum production, increased keratinocyte proliferation, abnormal desquamation, and colonization by Propionibacterium acnes, resulting in inflammation.
Acne grading is based on the numbers, type, and extent of acne lesions. Depending on the severity of the condition, we prescribe treatments that will target the particular causative mechanisms causing an individual’s acne condition.
Routine endocrinologic testing is not necessary. Indicators of hyper-androgenism often include menstrual dysfunction, hyrsutism (excessive hair growth), or polycystic ovarian syndrome in adult women.
In all cases, we at Park Avenue Medical Spa recommend deep cleansing of the pores to eliminate the sebum and prevent infection. Exfoliation further helps to reduce hyperkeratosis. In addition, we often add light peels to a cleansing facial in my N.Y. practice.
Mild acne can be successfully treated with a topical retinoid with or without a topical antibiotic. Prolonged use of topical antibiotics can induce antibiotic resistance.
There are multiple topical retinoids, like adapalene or tazarotene which give excellent results.
Benzoyl peroxide is a bactericidal and is effective in treating acne to end the development of P. acne resistance. It is available alone or in combinations with topical retinoid or antibiotics.
Topical antibiotics, like clindamycin or erythromycin show efficiency and are available in gels or creams combined with retinoids or benzoyl peroxide. Studies indicate that they have comparative efficacy in reducing acne lesions.
Treatment of moderate acne will require a more aggressive approach. Systematic antibiotics are often added to a topical regimen. The most commonly used antibiotic is tetracycline and its derivatives.
Oral contraceptives containing estrogen and a progestin have also been effective in reducing acne in women.
I often incorporate spironolactone when treating acne patients in my Westchester practice. This medication inhibits biosynthesis of testosterone and blocks androgen receptors, thus eliminating the androgenic pathway of acne production.
Severe acne will need a combination of treatments, including synthetic antibiotics, topical retinoids, topical benzoyl peroxide and hormonal manipulation in women. Oral isotretinoin is indicated in severe nodulocystic acne or treatment-resistant moderate acne. Depression and suicidal behaviors have been reported in patients taking isotretinion. Other treatments include intralesional corticosteroid, injections, chemical peels, IPL treatments and photodynamic therapy.
At Park Avenue Medical Spa, we utilize both glycolic and salicylic acid peels. The salicylic acids have a strong comedolytic effect and penetrate deep into pores.
Photodynamic therapy utilizes a photosensitzing agent and used correctly shows positive results.
The face and neck are areas often neglected by many of our clients. They, however, are an easy give-away of one’s true age and should be treated as frequently as the face.
Some of the most common blemishes we see with the, hands, neck, and décolleté are “sun spots,” fine lines, creepiness , loss of elasticity and firmness, and loss of dermal and subcutaneous volume.
In my Armonk, Westchester N.Y., practice I start with close inspection of these areas and after assessment of the degree of damage we recommend single or combined therapies.
We immediately start a regimen including topical agents like retinoids or glycolics.Other topicals often utilized are hydroquinone or kojic acid containing collagen stimulating peptides or growth factors. Antioxidants are also useful in treating hyper-pigmentation and preventing oxidative damage.
Park Avenue Medical Spa is equipped with the latest in state of the art technology for the treatment of aging.
The treatments are always customized to individual needs and may include microdermabrasion, peels and IPL treatments.
In all our Westchester centers we perform a variety of alfa and beta hydroxi acid peels of different strengths. We also utilize commonly trichloroacetic acid peels for those with more severe problems.These treatments are complemented by at home use of appropriate creams and abundant use of the right sunscreen.
For patients with more advanced conditions we recommend IPL photo rejuvenation. The use of this device will improve texture, remove pigmentation and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Botox is frequently added for treatment of the neck to eliminate platysmal banding and provide a moderate lift.
Mesotherapy is another technique that I utilize in my NY locations (don’t you only have NY locations? In which case, you should just say “at all my locations”)to improve texture and reduce wrinkling. This technique developed in France utilizes multiple superficial injections of hyaluronic acid combined with vitamins and retinoic acid.
The loss of volume can be corrected with fillers. Most commonly used fillers are Radiesse (Calcium Hydroxylapatite) and Sculptra (poly-L-lactic acid).
It is not uncommon to utilize multiple therapies for better and faster results. It then remains in one’s hands to protect and maintain the results achieved.
Protection with frequent application and generous amount of the right sunscreen remains one of the best ways to prevent future damage and maintain a healthy ageless skin.
In my practice, Facial Rejuvenation often includes a multitude of treatments, starting with a series of peels combined with microdermabrasion, to a more complex approach that incorporates Botox Fillers and IPL technology.
What determines the treatment selected is a detailed history and physical with a close analysis of the degree of photoaging. For a younger patient with Type I photoaging, I concentrate more on the pigmentary changes, the vascular aspect, and the pores. For Type II photoaging, where there is involvement of the entire dermis, the approach is more complex. Type 3 is characterized by lypoatrophy, muscle and bone re absorption, with deeper wrinkles and significant volume loss. This remains the biggest challenge for me. The majority of these patients have not had any aesthetic procedure and are often unwilling to accept surgical or ablative procedures and sometimes fillers, which could promote collagen or new bone formation, like Sculptra or Radiesse.
The IPL technology remains the gold standard for treatment of actinic keratoses, rosacea and acne. These technologies can increase collagen production, reduce pore size and improve overall texture of the skin. The equipment available to my Westchester patients gives me the versatility of different energies, IPL technology with bipolar RF, IPL alone or just RF which accomplishes volumetric heating and is used primarily for those patients who have important laxity.
In both my Armonk and Rye Brook, NY, pracices I offer my patients combining technologies based on their needs and primary goals. IPL devices can eliminate inflammation, decrease the numbers of Propionibacterium and Demodex organisms and reduce sebum production. These actions improve acne. Adding photodynamic therapy with the aminolevulinic acid (ALA) will further improve results and even reduce the number of treatments.
The Sciton technology using special filters allows me to treat pigmentation and vascularity more aggressively. Patients with Rosacea see faster and more impressive results after only one treatment.
The Refirm ST (Syneron) combines infrared with bipolar RFand penetrates to a depth of 1.5mm. to 2mm. This skin tightening treatment is used by itself or combined with other Elos technology to improve texture and tighten the skin.
These treatments can be successfully applied to the neck, chest and hands, areas that tend to be often neglected.
Used alone or in combination with chemical peels, microdermabrasion, mesolift, Botox and Fillers these treatments can turn back the clock.
